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A corner toilet is an excellent alternative to standard toilets for utilizing bathroom space. Ready to install a corner toilet in your space? Follow these step-by-step instructions to ensure a seamless process. If you are unfamiliar with installing bathroom fixtures, we recommend consulting a professional.
Read all instructions carefully before beginning your corner toilet installation and be sure to observe all local plumbing and building codes.
To install a regular toilet, see our guide on how to install a toilet.
Note: For the following instructions, it is assumed that any old fixtures have been removed and any repairs to the water supply and/or toilet flange have been completed.
Tools & Materials
Tape Measure
Straight Edge
Level
Pencil
Shim
Adjustable Wrench
Hacksaw
Latex Caulk or Tile Grout
Important: To prepare for installing a corner toilet, shut off the water supply lines in the new toilet location.
To determine the toilet rough-in location, measure and mark the rough-in length out from the corner on each wall.
Use a straight edge to draw two perpendicular lines from the marks created in the previous step. The intersection of these lines will mark the rough-in location.
Press the new wax ring into place on the toilet flange on the floor with the flat side down and the tapered edge up. Apply enough pressure to hold the ring in place during installation but be careful not to press it out of shape.
Install the anchor bolts through the toilet flange. The anchor bolts should be pointing upwards so that when the toilet is placed, the bolts will project through the mounting holes on the base of the toilet.
When the wax ring and bolts are attached, lift the toilet and align the mounting holes with the anchor bolts on the floor for proper placement.
Set the toilet down on the floor and press in place to form a tight seal with the wax ring. Do not move the toilet after placing, this could break the watertight seal and cause leakage.
Thread the washers and nuts onto the anchor bolts.
Tip: Before tightening washers and nuts, verify that your toilet is level. If the toilet is not level place a shim under the base of the toilet and adjust as necessary.
When toilet is properly aligned, finish tightening the washers and nuts onto the anchor bolts with your adjustable wrench. Do this gradually, alternating from one bolt to the other until both are tight. Be sure not to overtighten as this could cause cracks and damage the base of your toilet.
Place bolt caps over the anchor bolts on the base of the toilet.
Tip: If the anchor bolts extend too far over the top of the washers and nuts, use a hacksaw to trim to the correct length.
If you are installing a two-piece toilet, slide the tank bolts through the mounting holes on the top of the base of the toilet. If your toilet has only one piece, move on to step 7.
Thread washers and nuts onto the tank bolts. Verify that the tank is level and alternately tighten the washers and nuts until the tank is resting firmly on the bowl.
Connect the water supply tubes at the bottom of the tank. Turn on the water supply and flush the toilet several times to check for any leaks around the back or base.
Attach the toilet seat.
Finish your installation by applying latex caulk or tile grout around the base of the toilet.
You can generally replace a regular toilet with a corner toilet without any major modifications, as they typically share the same rough-in measurements, making corner toilets compatible with standard plumbing systems.
To prevent leaks, it is best practice to install the toilet flange on top of the finished floor, as opposed to flush with the floor or below it.
While you can replace a toilet with a smaller rough-in, there will be a gap between the tank and the wall of that difference (in this case 2"). Leaning can easily break the seal between the tank and toilet, so consider installing an offset flange or DIYing a block of sorts to make up for that space.